Smelt & Co.

Speaking in hyperbole is always risky except when it’s Smelt & Co. Ever since a friend took me here on a random Sunday for brunch, despite my protests to leave my neighbourhood for a small trek to Balat, I’ve been in awe of what the chefs Samet and Sinan do here. These two handsome lads running this humble-chique place have an eye for the beautiful, and a taste for the delicious.

Not the easiest to travel to (no parking and 2+ transportation from hubs), but one of the most special experiences in Istanbul, especially on the rooftop in summer months.

Smelt & Co. occupies a whole building in the less tracked upon part of Balat. This small but pretty place offers you refined and delicate plates. I’ve never had an underwhelming dish here and try to go every time I’m in town as their menu changes more often than I can afford plane tickets.

What to order: Go for lunch, dinner, their special dinner and pairing events or for the best and most imaginative brunch in Istanbul. Their kombucha-based virgin cocktails are killer. The plates change seasonally but they are always seafood and vegetable focused. This place caters to vegans perfectly, even at short notice. Still, give them a heads up.