Bordel, meaning brothel in French, is the love child of Cem Ekşi and the dark side of his mind. Ekşi is the chef of the insufficiently acclaimed restaurant Mabou Pera just around the corner. His unique background comes to life in the menu executed by Chef Gökhan as currywursts, bratwursts, pasta, chicken sandwiches and French bistro beer drinks.
Context: This neighbourhood, Asmalımescit, or rather the amalgamation of narrow streets filled with bars and restaurants used to be an entertainment and inebriation epicentre. However, in time because of political and cultural shifts it lost its appeal to the young crowds. Ekşi’s efforts symbolise the renewal of quality nightlife in the area, for which I am quite thankful.
What to order: The currywurst is quite the late-night snack. Its ketchup and curry sauce is well-spiced and perfectly located on the sweet-savoury spectrum. The accompanying fries are made of well-sourced potatoes. Yet the Azgın Tavuk (Horny Chicken) shines on the menu. A circular thick pita bread filled with pulled chicken and a slightly spicy sauce makes this sandwich the ideal intoxicated belly filler.
The place also has drinks, a rare find in this economy. Beer on tap or Apérol spiked beer is what goes best with the rest of the menu.
What to know: Currywurst is actually a pretty old invention, dating to late 1940s Germany (a time when Germans still were cautious with inventing things). It is the quintessential street food in its popularity, greasiness and participation in popular culture.